How to Sew Fold-Over Elastic (FOE)

Step-by-step FOE binding for lingerie, babywear and necklines — the stitch, the stretch, the finish.

FOE is a soft elastic with a groove down the centre so it folds in half evenly. It usually has one shiny (decorative) side and one matte side, and is commonly 15–20 mm wide, folding to about half that. Unlike regular elastic, it both grips and finishes the raw edge, which is why it is the standard for lingerie and babywear.

1. Cut the FOE slightly shorter than the edge — about 10–15% shorter on stretchy necklines and leg openings, roughly equal on straight edges.
2. Mark both the fabric edge and the FOE into quarters, and pin them matched.
3. Fold the FOE over the raw edge along its centre line, shiny side up so the decorative face shows.
4. Sew with a zigzag (or 3-step zigzag), catching both layers, stretching the FOE gently to match the fabric between pins.
5. Overlap and secure the ends, then backstitch to finish.

• Stretch only on curves and necklines — keep it relaxed on straight edges or it ripples.
• Keep the shiny side out and the fold even on both sides so the stitch catches the back.
• Use a wider zigzag so it spans the fold and grips both faces.
• Don’t over-stretch — it fatigues the elastic and waves the edge.

Lingerie and bras, swimwear leg and neck openings, babywear, mask edges and any soft neckline. For the casing and direct methods used on waistbands, see How to Sew Elastic.